The Search for Methuselah

This is a continuation of my trip into the Nevada desert in search of Lahontan cutthroat...there were no trout harmed in the making of this entry.

From the Lahontan stream I drove to Bishop, California in preparation for my hike into the bristlecone grove - my first time to California.

I rose early the next morning to get some nice shots of the Sierras in alpenglow. I was amazed at how much snow remained up high. This snow is what pointed me to Bishop when I wanted to go to Lone Pine in search of my first true golden.

Due to snow, the road into the bristlecones was closed two from the trailhead, so I parked at the gate and the Sierra overlook.

You can see why the road was closed, but it probably won't be long before it opens.

I had the 4.5-mile loop trail all to myself, didn't realize until later that this may not have been a good idea.

Shortly into the trail, the sign says, "stay right", so I went right. I soon found that all north-facing slopes had a good bit of snow remaining. After about 1/4 mile of intermittent searching for the trail and post holing, the trail disappeared.

At this point I turned around and decided to take the left fork of the trail. As I made my way around to the east and south facing slopes the trail opened up and became much easier to follow. I soon found myself among the ancient ones.

These California bristlecones (Pinus longaeva) are a different species than the bristlecones I visited in Colorado (Pinus aristata) and much older. This loop and this grove is said to contain the oldest tree in the world Methuselah, which has an estimated germination date of 2832 BC - and this is why I made this journey.

I didn't know the exact location, all I had were GPS coordinates and a photo. Unfortunately, my GPS is in dire need of a charging cable, so I was "flying blind".

I started the hike with three layers (it was in the upper 30s) but as the sun rose higher it turned into a beautiful day.

I believe Methuselah is somewhere in the vicinity of the next photo, but without my GPS I couldn't pinpoint it exactly.

As I made it to the 3.5-mile mark of the trail, I knew that I would soon be encountering the section of the tail that remained buried beneath a few feet of snow, so when I intersected the Schulman cabin trail I made a very good decision. I was now out of water (1.5 liters) and solo, so I made the decision to take the shortest route back to the vehicle.

The cabin trail took me up several switchbacks to a saddle where I could see the road to the trailhead.

From the saddle, I abandoned the trail (I normally abide by the off-trail restrictions) and headed straight downhill to the road. I stopped one last time to take a shot of this solo tree....

...and this unusual remnant.

One last note from my first adventure in the Sierras: it amazes me to see cactus around 10,000 feet!

This specimen was somewhere around 8,000 feet on the way back to the main road.

Finally, this guy that just screams "Do Not Touch", were quite common in the California and Nevada desert floor.

I did not find Methuselah but it was a nice hike (8-10 miles) and it was nice to be back up in altitude. I'll take 50% on a short trip like this!

I plan to revisit the Sierras later this year, but next time I will be packing a fly rod and (hopefully) there will be a few trout involved.

Chris

Desert Trout - Lahontan Cutthroat

My company sent me to the Nevada desert in order to train on fuming acid spill mitigation. Most "normal" people would spend a couple of free days on the Vegas strip, but not me! I checked around for something to do away from the Las Vegas strip and thanks to friends at The Angler's Life List and the Nevada DOW I found this...

The Nevada DOW agent gave me the exact directions to find this stream. I have never been in the desert and what I didn't realize going into this was how rugged it would be.

I left the 4 Queens casino at 5:00 AM and by 6:00 I was in the town of Pahrump picking up plenty of water - I also carried my water purification filter. I turned off the hard top and soon found that it would be slow going. These weren't the gravel roads of Wyoming, where 30-40 mph is possible, this was 5-10 mph and that was pushing it! I assumed I would be heading somewhere in the vicinity of the snow (in the desert?).

The desert itself was incredible! Apparently they had a wet winter and it was green and some plants were in bloom.

Beavertail cactus in bloom:
I was a bit late for the yucca bloom, but there were still a few out there:

As I gained altitude, the Joshua tree became more prevalent and I took this shot of a fine specimen in the low light of the early morning.

After nearly an hour of off-road driving, I had made it to the first part of my destination (I was beginning to wonder).

The canyon stream would eventually be back and to the right of the USFS sign, but it would be an adventure in itself. The road turned to a cobble trail and I spent another thirty minutes crawling.
I finally made it to water and made one stream crossing. When I made it to the second crossing, a little deeper, I decided to get out to inspect the crossing a little closer. I think I could have crossed but on the other side the road turned to a second channel of the stream. I was almost 90 minutes from hard road and solo, so I decided discretion is the better part of valor and I parked and made the final hike to the trailhead on foot.

Once at the trailhead I found myself at a very nice looking pool, so I strung up my 6' 4-piece pack rod and thought to myself: what do desert trout eat? I tied on a small stimulator and on the first drift I had three fish inspect my fly...were these the fish I was in search of? Another drift and this guy was brought to hand.

My first desert trout, a Lahontan cutthroat, and my 8th cutthroat species added to my life list.
I picked three or four more cutties from the trailhead pool before I moved on. I eventually switched over to my "bread and butter" rig of an EHC on top with an 18 BHPT dropper. I soon found out this set-up works everywhere!
I picked up numerous fish of multiple age classes.


When I got to a section of stream where the canyon choked down, I sat on the pool at the bottom of the canyon and picked out cuttie after cuttie. I probably landed over ten fish from this pool - and missed nearly as many...typical cutthroat fishing.

The last little Lahontan from this pool had an unusual dark color to him.

The DOW agent informed me to be very careful when working along the stream banks as it was nearing snake season. With this warning and no easy way to move on up the canyon, I decided to call it a day. I had completed my goal, with several Lahontans landed, and I had another adventure ahead of me with the drive out.

I stopped and worked the trailhead pool one more time and picked up a couple more beautiful cutties before calling it a day.

After an hour plus ride back out to the hardtop; it was on to Bishop, California in search of the Bristlecone pine tree called Methuselah...
Chris

Elkhorn Cleanup 2010

It would have been a 6-hour drive from my new location to this event; luckily I had business in WV the two days prior to the event. Either way I don't plan on missing this event anytime in the coming years. This is one of the best TU events going as far as the comaraderie of the weekend goes.

As with 2009, I was able to hit some brookie water on the way down.

I fished this small stream during Thanksgiving weekend, 2009. This is what it looked like last time I was on this stream:

I had a new fishing partner on this visit and the fishing was still very slow. In a couple of hours of fishing I brought one brookie to hand and missed another small fish - he gave me a couple of opportunities.

The one brookie was all I had to show but it was another new stream to add to my personal list.

The following day was the cleanup and the numbers for 2010 were about half that of 2009.

I helped clean a new section of stream this year and we could have used the numbers from the previous year, as you can tell by the before and after photos.

Before:

After:

Before:

After:

Following the work we all gathered back at the Ashland Company Store to exchange stories of rare finds. During my work that morning I discovered the area "rich" in sports. Among the items I picked up were: a baseball, football, multiple basketballs, soccer ball, and a boxing glove. I believe the winner of the rare find went to the individual that found a parking meter.

After a nice fried chicken lunch, it was time to hit the water. Over the last three years, I believe this is the only stream I've fished not in search of native salmonids. The closest brookie water is over an hour away, across the state line, in Virginia. What this stream does hold is some of the nicest colored 100% wild rainbows and browns...and on this day I caught plenty of both.

The blood-red adipose fins on the wild browns are amazing!

After a nice day of fishing, I finished off the day with a great surprise. I was dredging a woolybugger through a deep hole when I felt a tug on the swing. Much to my surprise, and my partner's surprise, I landed this guy.

My fishing partner has been fishing this stream for over 15 years and has never caught a brookie. I'm not sure where the closest stocked water is or if a "bucket biologist" has tried to introduce brookies, but I do know there are currently ZERO "natives" in these coal-country waters.

I have since received reports of others catching brookies in this stream and the possibility of brookies in one of the tribs, of the tribs...so who knows??

Chris

Save the Paiute

While I have yet to add this species to my list (yet!), one of my fellow native trout enthusiasts has ask me to post this information.

Please do a little research to educate yourself on this very rare species and send your comments.
There is an open public comment period to the Final Environmental Impact Statement (EIS) for the proposed restoration of the Paiute cutthroat into Silver King Creek below Llewellyn Falls until May 10, 2010. I strongly recommend that everyone write in support of this as this will be the LAST chance to get our voices heard before the final decision comes down!

For more information:

http://edocket.access.gpo.gov/2010/2010-7952.htm

To see the EIS:

http://www.fws.gov/nevada/protected_species/fish/species/pct.html

You can address your comments to:

Robert D. Williams, State Supervisor
Nevada Fish and Wildlife Office
1340 Financial Boulevard, Suite 234
Reno, NV 89502

Telephone: (775) 861-6300
Fax: (775) 861-6301

Thanks,
Chris

In Search of the Wild, West Virginia Slam

I fished this stream in 2009, during the Elk River cleanup and caught wild browns and rainbows. At the time, the stream was chocolate milk so the fishing conditions weren't optimum.

2009 Photos:

Reports were this stream held all three wild, West Virginia species and I had to find out. I've never caught "the slam" from the same stream and I thought this was my opportunity.

I have a new addition to the arsenal in the form of a 7'6" 4wt Thomas & Thomas "Caenis" taper bamboo.

SugarKane Rods Ltd.

I needed to meet the rodmaker on the Elk, so I thought while I was in the area I would give the small stream another shot at the slam.

Recent rains had the stream only slightly off color this day, but still in good shape. I started off with my usual set-up of a 16 EHC with an 18 BHPT dropper. I quickly picked up a couple of browns.

It's never a good thing when you pull the camera out to turn it on, and it's already on. I don't know how long it has been on (probably days) because the battery indicator showed "empty".

I was able to snap off a few pictures of the wild browns.

I fished the stream to the extreme headwaters, where it split into two very small trickles. I caught ZERO rainbows and saw no sign of brookies. I did, however, speak with a friend who fished it a couple of weeks earlier and caught all rainbows. I also spoke with the individual who thought verified brookies a few years earlier and he said he caught ZERO brookies.

I would still love to catch the wild, West Virginia slam but it appears I won't do it on this stream.

Chris

Father & Son Easter Weekend in the Smokies

With this transfer and a severe winter, it had been over 140 days since I last had a salmonid on the end of the line...and it happened to be in the Smokies as well.

The weekend plans changed a couple of times: we were going to WV, we were taking the family to the Smokies, and finally it ended up being just father & son weekend - because Ross said so!

We pulled out of the gas station in Parkersburg Friday morning at 5:30 AM and by noon we were at the Bass Pro Shop in Sevierville, Tennessee. The plan was to gear Ross up with a pair of waders and wading boots. With the cost of both nearly $130 and an April forecast of 80 degrees, Ross decided he would wet wade with dad.

After checking into the hotel in Pigeon Forge and making a quick stop at Sugarlands Visitor Center, our first destination was Meigs Creek trailhead at the Sinks on Little River.

I should have done a little more homework, but I didn't decide on the Smokies until Thursday night. When we got to the trailhead we found it was closed for construction work on the trailhead parking area. The closest pull out on Little River would have added over a mile to the already planned three mile round trip hike. We decided to hit more new water in the area so we headed for Elkmont and the Little River trailhead.

In 2009 we fished Jakes Creek from this trailhead, but this day we were headed up the trail to fish the upper Little River proper.

Ross checking out the history of Elkmont.

We hiked up the trail about a mile or so - until we thought we were above most other fisherman. I strung up my new 7'6" 4wt bamboo with hopes of christening the new boo with a wild rainbow.

I waded in up to about mid-calf and Ross followed. I remained in the water while Ross was quickly back up on the bank, changing into his dry shoes. "It's too cold!"

I missed a few short strikes and had one long distance release (LDR) but ultimately ended up with a skunk on Little River. My first thought was: here we go again! Ross and I got skunked on our 2009 Easter trip to the Smokies but the water/weather was too nice to be shutout this year.

While we were in the Smokies in 2009 Ross picked up a visitor's guide full of pamphlets for park features. One of those features was Laurel Falls, so with a couple of hours of daylight remaining we decided to do the 1.5-mile uphill hike to the falls.

It wasn't a difficult hike at all, I've done many that were more difficult, but it has been a long inactive winter. In addition, Ross has been playing basketball all summer so I couldn't have been happier when I felt Ross setting the pace up the mountain.

We made it to the falls in what felt like no time at all.

My first attempt at HDR photography.

On the way back to the hotel room I explained my personal philosophy on exploring to him. Whether it be fishing or eating, you never know if there may be something better out there if you don't constantly try new things. So, for dinner we tried something different. He said he wanted to try someplace for dinner he had never tried - he picked Popeye's. He listened!

After a round of goofy golf it was back to the hotel room where Ross would study his maps and waterfall guidebook. He found where he wanted to go the next morning. What kid wouldn't want to hike Boogerman trail! Ross had never seen an elk so he also wanted to check out the herd in the Cataloochee area. Unfortunately I-40 is closed at the TN/NC border so there was not an easy route to get there from Pigeon Forge, so we opted for plan B.

The next day we would head to the virgin stand of timber on the Albright Loop trail. I'm 42 and I've never been amidst a virgin stand on the east coast, so this would be a first for me too. In addition to the Albright Grove, the trail crosses Indian Camp Creek and Jim Casada's book rates it as an "A".

After a quick continental breakfast we headed for the unmarked Maddron Bald trailhead. We stopped in the office of the campground that hides the trailhead to ask for directions. While in the office Ross found what he had been looking for - a coonskin cap. Once he had his new lucky fishing hat we were off for the trailhead.

The trail was three miles up hill again and Ross did great again! We did stop a couple of times to rest.

About 2.5 miles up, we finally hit Indian Camp Creek and time to prospect a new stream for brookies.

I quickly picked up a brookie below the footbridge....

...and one above the bridge (with my lucky fishing hat).

After picking up a quick two brookies, it was onward and upward.

About another half-mile we were in the land of giants (east coast speaking). I'm in my early 40s and I've never seen a virgin stand of timber - on the east coast. These trees were massive! A couple of them Ross and I tried to wrap are arms around and couldn't even get a 1/4 of the base.

After taking a short break we made the decision to make to head back down instead of further up. While we were taking a rest, the sound of running water got the best of me. We bushwhacked through the rhododendron to another small stream (Dunn Creek).

Wouldn't you know it, it held brookies too!

While I was working one of the plunge pools, Ross decided he was going to wet wade with me. However, his wading was unintentional. Next thing I knew he was on the rock with me - bare foot!

I worked another pool or two and decided it was time to head back out so I helped Ross twist his socks dry and head back up through the rhododendron jungle.

On the way back down we stopped at the bridge crossing and scrambled our way about 30 yards downstream. I nearly hit double digits in the handful of pools and pockets I worked.

Ross releasing one of the nicer brookies...in his new, lucky fishing hat.

Nearing the bottom of the trail, we decided to take time to visit one of the original homesites (circa 1880s).

Back at the trailhead, I'm not sure if this is a look of relief or accomplishment.

After a quick lunch, we studied our books and looked at the watch. We made the decision to head for Porters Creek. Ross found another waterfall he wanted to hike to up Porter Creek trail.

When we got to the trailhead we discovered that he didn't have dry socks or shoes to hike in - sandal time!

I never miss an opportunity to try to educate a little on our fishing trips. Early spring is the perfect time for wildflower education. The trailhead had several common species of spring flowers and a couple of not-so-common species.

Bloodroot (all I could show him in 2009 was the namesake root):

Also at the trailhead, yellow trout lily:

It didn't take long before walking past very "fishy" water and kicking gravel out of the sandals before we were heading back to the car for wet shoes and fishing gear.

We settled on one of the nicest pools I have ever witnessed on a high gradient stream and there were rainbows rising all over the place. I don't know what they were feeding on but they didn't want anything to do with my 18 EHC! Once I put on the dropper (18 BHPT soft hackle), I started getting strikes. I missed several strikes on the nymph before I finally hooked this small rainbow.

The first fish landed on my new custom-made 7'6" 4wt bamboo - a small, Porters Creek wild rainbow.

While landing this little guy, I put everything else down. Then, for the first time all weekend, Ross asked to try his luck with the fly rod.

Ross working a beautiful pool with the new bamboo rod, and wet wading just like dad.

The one rainbow was all we managed out of Porters, so as it was getting late in the evening, we decided to call it a very successful day.

Before grabbing something to eat, we made a visit to the strip in Gatlinburg where Ross took some time to pan a bucket of dirt in search of minerals. We also made a stop at The Day Hiker, one of the nicer specialty stores on the strip.

After dinner, it was back to the hotel room to watch WVU "play" in the Final Four. It was a sub-par performance but it was great to see them on the big stage. One of the most heart wrenching things I can remember in sports was watching the third leading scorer in WVU history (behind Jerry West and Hot Rod Hundley), Da'Sean Butler end his career with a blown ACL. Coach Huggins also earned a great deal of respect, in my book, with his interactions with Da'Sean.

The next morning it was up early to beat the crowds to Grotto Falls before the six-hour drive home.

Again, if I had done my homework, that weekend would have been so much smoother! The road to Grotto Falls was closed for paving. Ross checked his waterfall book and found one right behind the Sugarland Visitor Center.

Cataract Falls is located about 1/2 mile behind the visitor center on a nature trail that begins directly behind the building.

From the falls, it was breakfast at Flapjacks - Ross had been eyeing this place all weekend. So, with his fourth meal of pancakes in three days in his belly, it was time to hit the road for this year's version of Easter in the Smokies.

Ross is already planning our next trip to the Smokies and he also asked about a trip to Yellowstone...that's my boy!

Chris